This is the basic wiring diagram I drew on a napkin in 15 minutes. There are some issues that could be fixed like the wiring of the timer but since I haven’t built in the control panel yet it works for now. I would move the timer off of the circuit with the power supply and on to it’s own hook up off the DPDT switch so the LEDs don’t flash when you flip off the switch. If it were fluorescents or any type of traditional bulb it would be more of a concern to me.
***FOR NOW THIS PROJECT IS OPEN SOURCE***
If you use any part of it all I ask for is credit. Modifications are great, but I take NO responsibility for any issues that come from mis-wiring or faulty components from where ever you source them.
Use thicker gauge wire when dealing with any of the 120v wiring and <>bDO NOT PLUG IT IN until you are done with the circuits. I am NOT an electrician so double go over all of the plans and do some extra reading on wiring mains. Know that this should be regarded as potentially dangerous and a bad idea overall.
As for the 12v wiring, DOUBLE CHECK THE WIRING AS YOU GO! The strips ARE polarized so if you hook up a “+” where it should be a “-” the strip will not work. This happened a bunch of time for me and added an hour or two to the wiring and was very frustrating. In the end it was a simple mistake that is totally avoidable so just take your time.
LED’s are mounted to coroplast in what ever arrangement you’d like. I used a piece of 24″x36″ and evenly spaced them on a rectangle I drew out in the middle (approx 20″x30″).
The next step covers the box building but make sure to leave space on the edges of your coroplast for the box to rest on. The coroplast will get attached to the underside of the box so it’s all one unit.
Questions can be sent through the contact page or @pangeaprinting